Image Name: Tailoring and Fittings
When you have a penchant for collecting ultra-rare Jordans, Brunello Cucinelli cashmere jumpers, or anything from The Row, purchasing a new suit will undoubtedly be one of your priciest wardrobe investments. Thankfully, whether you spend $500 on an off-the-rack item or $5,000 on a bespoke ensemble from one of the world’s top tailors, quality and value can be found at every level of the suit hierarchy—if you know what to look for. Remember, no matter how much you spend, nothing is more important than the right fit. A well-tailored $1,000 suit will always look better than a poorly fitted $5,000 one.
Entry-Level ($1,000 and Under)
The sub-$1,000 echelon is perhaps the most diverse—and most fraught—level of the suit hierarchy. Trendy looks from big fast fashion brands are at the bottom (in both price and quality) with respectable go-tos from J.Crew at the mid-range and classic fits from Todd Snyder at the higher end. While you may find a few made-to-measure options in this range, unless you’re a particularly hard-to-fit size, you’ll probably get better value from something off-the-rack.
A sub-$ 1,000 suit may not come with the prestige of a luxury label or the personalization of a high-end tailoring shop, but you can still find something great here if you do your homework. Look for a suit with high-quality (usually Italian-made) fabric that’s 100% wool (or 100% cotton or linen if it’s summertime) and a fully-canvassed or half-canvassed jacket. Ensure as much of your money as possible is going to materials and workmanship rather than advertising and supply chains.
“Many of the legacy high-end suit brands still largely work on the wholesale model which requires higher markups to allow resellers to make money,” explains Fokke de Jong, the founder of SuitSupply. “They also often need to cover the costs of fashion shows, marketing events, big campaigns, and celebrity partnerships,” he adds. This means that when you buy a suit from a big-name label, you’re paying for their marketing costs and wholesale markups as well as the materials and labor that go into the suit.
Mid-Range ($1,000 to $4,000)
If you’ve got a bit more money to spend, your options will widen significantly to include a robust selection of off-the-rack suits from the likes of J. Press, Sid Mashburn, and Drake’s, as well as made-to-measure options from respected tailoring shops. At The Armoury, a Hong Kong-based tailor with locations in NYC, Japanese-made ready-to-wear suits range from about $1,600 to $2,500, with made-to-measure options starting at $3,150.
“The difference between a $500 suit and a $1,500 or $2,000 suit is a higher level of fabric,” offers Max Papier, The Armoury’s director of e-commerce. “Each level that you go up, you’re also going to have more handwork involved in the jacket, which means more hand sewing compared to machine sewing.” These upgrades translate to performance benefits like durability and breathability (a key consideration if you live somewhere hot) as well as a subtly elevated look and feel.
High-End ($4,000+)
This is where things get truly fancy, from off-the-rack suits from the likes of Tom Ford and Armani to the full bespoke experience from a high-end tailor. At this level, you should expect to get the very best of everything, including elite fabrics, handmade floating canvas, and the sartorial clout of a top-shelf tailoring house. There are significant differences between a great $2,500 suit and a great $5,000 suit, but most improvements tend to be incremental, like the provenance of a fabric or a particularly dialed-in fit.
At Huntsman & Sons, a famed Savile Row tailoring house founded in 1849, a two-piece bespoke suit starts just shy of $6,000, which is more than some other bespoke services but still on par with many high-end off-the-rack options. “Whilst our starting price point is not dissimilar from that of some luxury designer counterparts, what is unique about a Huntsman bespoke suit is the hallmark of quality guaranteed by the fact that our entire production and make process takes place in-house at 11 Savile Row,” explains Campbell Carey, Huntsman’s Head Cutter and Creative Director. “You’re also guaranteed a suit that fits you perfectly and is made for you alone,” he adds. “It is a rare and wonderful thing that in this age, you can meet the people who are responsible for the creation of your garment every step of the way, from the person who cuts your pattern to the hands that finish your buttons.”
Image Name: Building a Capsule Wardrobe
Vintage
If you’ve never considered buying a vintage suit, you should. Not only is a good-quality pre-owned suit priced well within the range of an entry-level off-the-rack option, but it’s also more unique, more sustainable, and often better quality than anything you’ll find at a conventional retailer. “Now that tailored clothing is something that a lot of guys want to wear, I think there’s an increased awareness of what these things cost, and guys are catching on to the value of vintage,” explains Sean Crowley, the owner of Crowley Vintage in NYC, whose suits are priced from about $500 to $1,500. “There’s always been a price range, but a cheap suit circa 1950 is so much better made than a lot of higher-end readymade stuff today,” he explains. “Fewer corners were cut, more things were done by hand, and the people making these things understood quality and fit and drape so much better.”
Tailoring and Fit
Regardless of how much you spend on your suit, the key to looking sharp lies in the fit. A well-fitted suit can elevate your appearance, while an ill-fitting one can do just the opposite. It’s worth investing in alterations to ensure your suit fits perfectly. This might include taking in the waist, adjusting the sleeves, or hemming the trousers. The goal is to have a suit that complements your body shape and allows for comfortable movement.
Building a Capsule Wardrobe
When investing in suits, consider building a capsule wardrobe—a collection of timeless pieces that can be mixed and matched to create a variety of outfits. Start with essential colors like navy, charcoal, and black. These colors are versatile and suitable for most occasions. Adding a few classic patterns, such as pinstripes or checks, can also enhance your wardrobe’s versatility.
Accessories Matter
Finally, don’t forget about accessories. A great suit is enhanced by the right accessories. Invest in quality ties, pocket squares, and cufflinks. Shoes should not be overlooked; a good pair of dress shoes can make or break your look. Remember, details like a well-chosen watch or a stylish belt can add the finishing touches to your outfit.
Conclusion:
Investing in a suit is a significant step in building a versatile and stylish wardrobe. Whether you’re looking at entry-level options or considering a high-end bespoke suit, the key is to focus on fit, fabric quality, and workmanship. Remember, a well-fitted suit will always outshine a more expensive but ill-fitting one. By doing your research and understanding what makes a suit great, you can find quality and value at any price point. Consider vintage options for unique finds, and don’t forget the importance of accessories to complete your look. With the right suit, you’ll be ready for any occasion with confidence and style.